Introduction
This is one of those articles I’ve been looking forward to, and dreading, at the same time. I knew going into this one, that it would be a somewhat technical article at times. There’s also a lot of ground to cover on top of that. I’m going to try to keep the technical details from getting too overwhelming, and stick to the basics. At the same time I hope to bring to light enough of the power of this aspect of the 5D Mark III, that you can see what it’s capable of.
This is one of those articles I’ve been looking forward to, and dreading, at the same time. I knew going into this one, that it would be a somewhat technical article at times. There’s also a lot of ground to cover on top of that. I’m going to try to keep the technical details from getting too overwhelming, and stick to the basics. At the same time I hope to bring to light enough of the power of this aspect of the 5D Mark III, that you can see what it’s capable of.
The Auto Focus system in the 5D Mark III is a huge step
forward from the previous iterations of the 5D series of cameras. Gone are the
hit or miss focusing in low light, and the poor performance for fast action.
Aside from a few minor differences, this is the same system found in Canon’s
flagship camera, the 1Dx. What this does is to provide the owner with high end
camera features, at roughly half the cost of a 1Dx. This makes it one heck of a
bargain when you start comparing. Sure the 5D Mark III isn’t cheap either, but
when you start to notice you have nearly everything the 1Dx offers, and a
slightly high pixel count on top of it, the value really starts to become
apparent when you stack it against the price tag of the 1Dx.
Focus Points
The heart of the Canon 5D Mark III’s AF (Auto-Focus) is the
61 available focus points. Tightly packed around the center of the imaging
frame, these points are selectable in several configurations. 41 of these
points are high precision cross type points, and these points provide even more
accuracy with lenses up to f/4. These cross type points improve accuracy for
still photography, as well as predictive focusing when shooting fast action.
The latter is territory that was previously considered the domain of the
1D-series of full frame cameras. It should be noted that with some lenses, with
a minimum aperture higher than f/4, the number of available focus points may be
less. For more information about how lens selection affects available focus
points, see page 79 of your owner’s manual.
Focus Modes/AF Area
You have several options at your disposal for choosing
how many focus points you wish to use. The first of these options is the tried
and true Single-Point mode, allowing you to choose a single focus point out of
the points available to you. There is also a similar option called Single-Point
Spot mode, which is the same as Single-Point except is covers an even smaller
area than Single-Point.
Single-Point Spot will work best in situations that the
focus point is extremely small, such as when you are shooting through a fence
or similar obstruction, or focusing on a small point a detail a good distance
away. In those cases, the larger single point might not be quite small enough.
Both of those options are very useful when using a very narrow depth of field,
as multiple focus points may have problems deciding exactly what you actually
want in focus. The focus system is very accurate, but it doesn’t read minds.
Other options include AF Point Expansion, AF Point
Expansion with Surrounding Points, and Zone. The two AF Point Expansion options
are similar with the former starting with a single point and then using the
focus points above, below, left, and right of the center point. Think of a “+”
sign made out of focus points. AF Point Expansion with Surrounding Points again
uses a single point to start with, but also picks all of the other points that
immediately surround it. This ends up as a 3x3 grid of focus points. Zone AF
builds even further upon this, giving you a block of focus points that is 4
points wide and 3 points tall.
The last option is Automatic Selection mode, which
surveys all the available focus points, and uses the ones it deems necessary
for what it thinks you are phtographing. In all modes except for Automatic
Selection, you can move your set of focus points to any of the available points.
This is obviously useful, as what you want to focus on isn’t always going to be
in the same place in the viewfinder. Think of the differences when shooting
between landscape and portrait modes as an example.
Canon is pretty smart when it comes to setting the focus
points and zones. They knew when they set this system up that you may want to
use differing points depending upon whether the camera is in portrait or
landscape mode. So by using Orientation Linked AF Point (AF Tab Section 4), you
can control how the 5D Mark III handles being oriented in different ways. If
you frequently flip back and forth, this can be a very useful setting. I change
this setting depending upon what I’m shooting.
The default method of changing the AF Area is to look
through the viewfinder and continue to tap the M-Fn button until you arrive at the
mode you wish to use. I have enabled Area Selection Method on the fourth panel
of the menu’s AF tab, so that I can use the Main Dial. This allows me to tap
the M-Fn button once, and the scroll the Main Dial to switch to the AF mode I
wish to use. This is much more intuitive to me, as opposed to continually tapping
the M-Fn button repeatedly. In addition,
I also employ Select AF Area Selection Mode and disable the AF Area modes I
don’t normally use. This way I don’t have to scroll past them. Typically I only
disable the selection of Auto-Selection, as I have yet to use it as an option.
You’ll find the ability to set this option in the fourth group of the AF tab.
To manually select the AF point, or zone, you press the
upper-right hand button on the back of the 5D Mark III to place the camera in
the manual selection mode. Then you use the Main Dial to move the point, or
zone, left or right, and the Main Dial to move it up or down. You can also use
the Multi-Controller, which I find is much easier than the former method. Note
than on the fifth group of the AF tab, you are provided an option for the
selection pattern. This controls whether the point selection stops at the edge
of the AF area or wraps back around to the other side.
AF Subject Tracking Cases
Now that I’ve covered the basics of focus points, let’s
step through the 5 sections of the AF menu, and hit on what we haven’t touched.
The first of these menus is a list of predefined settings that you can choose
from when shooting various forms of action. I‘m using predefined loosely here,
because you can actually tailor each of these to suit your needs better if you find
the need to fine tune. These options are numbered from Case 1 to Case 6, and
they are set up for the following purposes:
- Case 1: Versatile multipurpose
- Case 2: Continue to track subjects, ignoring possible obstacles
- Case 3: Instantly focus on subjects suddenly entering AF points
- Case 4: For subjects that accelerate or decelerate quickly
- Case 5: For erratic subjects, that move in any direction
- Case 6: For subjects that change speed and move erratically
What you’ll want to do is to match what you’re shooting
with the case example that best matches your subject matter. Case 1, 4, 5, and
6, are fairly self-explanatory. However, you may be a little confused with what
Case 2 and 3 are. It has to do with objects that come between you and the
subject you are tracking. Just remember that Case 2 will try and ignore the object
that came between you, while Case 3 will begin to instantly focus on the object
that came in between you and the original subject. So it’s a matter of
following the original subject, or setting focus on the new one.
As an example let’s use the example of receiver running a
football down the field for a touchdown. As they pass a defensive player that
is closer to the camera. The receiver is obscured briefly when the defensive
player comes between you and the receiver briefly. If you are using Case 2, the
focus should not lock onto the player in between you and the receiver, unless
you start actively tracking that defensive player.
Now let’s say you are shooting a track event, and you are
focusing on the lead runner, when the second place runner passes them coming
between you and the runner you had been focusing on. If you were using Case 3
Tracking, your camera would immediately start to focus on the new runner doing
the passing.
All of this translates into a very versatile way to allow
you to tailor the camera’s autofocus system to suit your needs. It extends to
much more than sports, by the way. I’ve used this extensively for shooting
photos of birds in flight. Case 2 Tracking works extremely well for this,
allowing you to track the birds as they fly behind power poles or other similar
obstacles. If you find that the setting doesn’t suit you exactly right, you can
change the tracking parameters for each of the Cases.
If you decide to alter these settings, you have the
ability to adjust three parameters:
- Tracking sensitivity
- Accel./decel. Tracking
- AF Point Auto Switching
The first option, Tracking Sensitivity, controls how
responsive the camera is to objects that come between you and the subject you
are currently tracking. Accel./Decel. Tracking controls the sensitivity of the
camera to notice subjects that start or stop suddenly. The last option, AF
Point Auto Switching, determines the camera’s sensitivity to using different AF
points, out of the ones you have selected. This is helpful should you be
tracking an object that may suddenly step outside of a currently locked on
focus point, but can still be picked up by another of your selected focus
points. It helps to remember that just because you have enabled a focus point,
it’s doesn’t mean it is always being used. One of the other points may have
been locked on. All of these options make the first section of the AF tab, a
very important place to start when setting your focus operation.
AI Servo Priority
For the second group of settings on the AF tab, you’ll
find two lone options. These are the AI Servo image priority parameters. I told
you this camera is perfect for shooting action, and this is another example of
why. When in AI Servo mode, as you should be when shooting action, you can set
what is most important for the camera to consider before taking the shot. The
first image priority options are Release, Focus, or Equal Priority. So you get
to choose which is more important, taking the shot or nailing the focus. After
the first shot, you have a second set of parameters that come into play. These
are the AI Servo second image priority options. The choices for this is Speed,
Focus, or Equal Priority, which allows you to tailor the subsequent shots to
keeping the burst rate high, or getting a good focus for each shot. As with the
first option, you can also set an equal priority between the two.
One-Shot Priority
Just so you know that One-Shot AF isn’t left out, I’ll
mention that on the third section of the AF tab, you’ll find an option that
tailors the One-Shot AF mode between Release and Focus. Other items on the
third group for the AF tab, allow you to turn the AF-Assist flash on and off,
for low light shooting, and whether to use the electronic focusing ring on
lenses that have one.
Next we’ll move on to section 4 of the AF tab, and the
first item controls what happens when the camera doesn’t gain focus. It’s
called Lens Drive When AF Impossible. You can have the camera quit trying to
focus, or continue to hunt for focus. I leave this set to On, which will allow
it to continue to try and focus. This way as I’m moving the camera around when
in AI Servo mode, it may lock focus as I’m tracking an object. If you have a
very long telephoto lens, you may prefer to set this to off, as longer
telephotos can become extremely out of focus if they are hunting too long. That
would make gaining focus take even longer the next time around. I’ve had that
happen a few times with my 400mm and 1.4x Extender, but not enough to make me switch
this to off yet.
The next option allows you to alter the number of
available AF points. You can choose between all 61 points, only the cross-type
points, 15 points, or 9 points. This affects all AF Modes except Automatic AF
Mode, which still uses all of the AF points. I leave all of the AF points
available to the camera, but of the available options I could see restricting
the camera to use only cross-type points due to their greater accuracy.
The last three options I’ve already mentioned earlier.
The first is Select AF Area Selection Mode. It allows you to disable certain AF
Area Modes. Then there’s AF Area Selection Method, which changes between
multiple presses of the M-Fn button and a combination of the M-Fn button and
the Main Dial to change the AF Area Mode. The last option sets whether you want
separate points to be used for portrait and landscape modes.
AF5 Menu Items
On the last section of the AF tab, you find four options.
The first one I’ve already mentioned as well. It is called Manual AF Point
Selection Pattern, and controls whether the manual selection of points, or
zones, stops at the edge of the AF points or scrolls through to the other side.
The next option is named AF Point Display During Focus. This
setting controls when the focus point is shown in the viewfinder. You have
options as follows:
- Constantly display focus points
- When selecting the AF point(s)
- When the camera is ready to shoot (before AF)
- During AF operation
- When focus is achieved
In addition, you can also control when the focus points
will illuminate in red, as opposed to the standard black. You can choose
between:
- Auto: AF Points and grid automatically illuminate in red under low light
- On: AF Points and grid always illuminate in red
- Off: AF Points and grid never illuminate in red
The last option allows you to micro adjust your lenses
focusing operation. This allows you to fine tune your lenses individually, providing
extremely precise focusing capabilities. For most people this is not necessary,
although it is available for those that what to go the extra distance to get
exacting results. Make sure you have a firm understanding of micro adjustment
before you attempt this. If you don’t know what you are doing, you could end up
having your lens focusing worse, not better.
Other AF Items To Consider
We’ve covered the menu, but there are a few more things
to cover regarding the AF system in general. First is the AF Mode. You have
three options:
- One Shot: For still subjects
- AI Servo: For moving subjects
- AI Focus: Switches from One Shot to AI Servo if the subject starts moving
I do all of my shooting in either One-Shot or AI Servo
modes. While the 5D Mark III may be better in AI Focus mode than its
predecessors, I have been trained to think in those two modes only. AI Focus
just hasn’t worked well for me in the past, so I avoid it. It’s not like AI
Servo won’t focus on a still object anyway, and the only reason it would lose
focus would be if you move the camera off of the target yourself.
A Couple of AF Tips and Customization Options
One thing I typically do, to help switch modes quickly if
needed, is to enlist the help of my DOF (Depth Of Field) preview button. Most
of the time it is set so that it switches between One-Shot and AI Servo when
pressed. This way I have instant access to the other mode if it is quickly
needed. You’ll find this option under the Custom Functions mention in my Canon
5D Mark III: Menu Basics and Highlights,
Part 3 article.
One last helpful item I want to cover briefly is registered
AF points and zones. Should you want quick access to a certain AF point or
zone, you can register that to a camera button as well. The couple of times
I’ve used this, I’ve assigned a registered point to the DOF preview button that
I just mentioned. You’ll do this through the Custom Functions as well, and it
will take the place of the One-Shot/AI Servo toggle I just mentioned if you
decide to use it. Once you set it in Custom Functions, select the AF points, or
zone, you wish to select. Then press the ISO and AF point button (upper
righthand button on the back of the camera) together until you hear a beep. Now
whenever you hit your DOF preview button, you’ll be set back instantly to your
registered AF point setting.
My Experiences
There’s been a lot of information that has been discussed
here, and I know I’ve only given you a brief walkthrough. However the best way
to learn is to get out there and start shooting with your camera. I practice
that mantra, and rest assured after shooting plenty of action in the form of
soccer games and wildlife, I am seriously impressed with how well this camera
performs when it comes catching the action. My rate of keeper images has jumped
dramatically, leaving me to choose between the shots I like the most, not shots
of varying degrees of focus.
The 5D Mark III has impressed me, especially with how
well it can ignore those obstacles that briefly come between you and your
subject. This was very important for wildlife, but it was especially so for when
I photographed a local soccer game. Even with players constantly running
between me and my subject, the 5D Mark III did an excellent job of maintaining
the task of following the subject.
In addition, tough lighting and contrast conditions
haven’t seemed to phase the 5D Mark III either. While at Carolina Beach a few weeks
ago, I took some photos of jellyfish. The dark water and low contrast of the
jellyfish didn’t trip up the AF system one bit. Also one should note, that the
sample photo provided is at 25,600 ISO!
Outside in the sun and sand, I knew the lighting was more
than adequate, but I found tracking the coastal pelicans an easy task. This was
even true when using my 400mm f/5.6 and 1.4x III Extender combo. This forced me
to shoot at an aperture of f/8, which gives me only the center AF point to use
instead of multiple focus points. It’s nice to know that a single AF point can
still track extremely well.
The AF capabilities found in the 5D Mark III are so much
better than the 5D Mark II’s I’ve played with. While the image quality from the
5D Mark II was incredible, if it had a fault, is was the AF system in general. This
was especially true under low light. Canon has cured this perfectly, by using
this incredibly capable AF system. The ability to catch action is simply one of
the strongest points of this camera, so experiment with it and don’t be afraid
to exploit its capabilities. That’s what it is there for.
I know I plan to give the 5D Mark III one heck of a
workout in just a few weeks at Mustang Week in Myrtle Beach. While they’ll be
car shows that any camera could easily catch, I’ll also be there at some of the
more action packed events trying my hand at panning and stopping the action.
Practice makes perfect, and I plan to get as much practice as I can!